This is the time to prepare shrubs for the upcoming winter.
Planting and Transplanting
A properly planted and maintained shrub will grow faster and live longer than one that is incorrectly planted. Shrubs can be planted almost any time of the year as long as the ground is not frozen. Late summer or early fall is the optimum time to plant shrubs in many areas. This gives the shrub a chance to establish new roots before winter arrives and the ground freezes.
Carefully follow the planting instructions that come with your shrub. If specific instructions are not available, follow these tips:
· Dig a hole twice as wide as and slightly shallower than, the root ball. Roughen the sides and bottom of the hole with a pick or shovel so that roots can penetrate the soil.
· With a potted shrub, gently remove the shrub from the container. Lay the shrub on its side with the container end near the planting hole. Hit the bottom and sides of the container until the root ball is loosened. If roots are growing in a circular pattern around the root ball, slice through the roots on a couple of sides of the root ball. With shrubs wrapped in burlap, remove the string or wire that holds the burlap to the root crown. It is unnecessary to completely remove the burlap. Plastic wraps must be completely removed. Gently separate circling roots on the root ball. Shorten exceptionally long roots, and guide the shortened roots downward and outward. Root tips die quickly when exposed to light and air, so don’t waste time.
· Place the root ball in the hole. Leave the top of the root ball (where the roots end and the trunk begin) 1/2 to 1 inch above the surrounding soil, making sure not to cover it unless roots are exposed. For bare root plants, make a mound of soil in the middle of the hole and spread plant roots out evenly over mound. Do not set shrubs too deep. As you add soil to fill in around the shrub, lightly tamp the soil to collapse air pockets, or add water to help settle the soil. Form a temporary water basin around the base of the shrub to encourage water penetration, and water thoroughly after planting. A shrub with a dry root ball cannot absorb water; if the root ball is extremely dry; allow water to trickle into the soil by placing the hose at the base of the shrub.
· Mulch around the base, though not right up to the bark (this will collect moisture, inviting fungus and diseases) to help insulate against winter temperature changes. A 3-foot diameter circle of mulch is common.
· After the hottest part of summer has passed, you can transplant any shrubs you need to move.
Pruning
Fall is a good time to remove branches that may be growing directions that you do not like. However, proceed with caution in spring flowering shrubs – their flower buds for next spring are already formed, and too much pruning may destroy next year’s floral display. Thin instead of shearing.
Before beginning, research what kind of shrub we are working with; what the natural shape of the shrub is, conical, globe, upright, or contorted; and what conditions the plant requires, such as sunlight, shade, wet soil, or dry soil. Good gardeners also typically avoid pruning after it has just rained or when the air is damp, as wetness encourages spore growth. Pruning tends to bring on new growth, so you should prune after the leaves fall off the shrub to avoid frost damage.
Proper Cuts
Winterizing
The best time to fertilize shrubs is after the leaves have fallen off the nearby trees. This is the best sign of dormancy. During dormancy, the above ground of the shrubs appears to stop growing but underground is a different story. Proper fertilizing with an organic 10-8-8 fertilizer at this time is much more effective and in most cases will last for the entire year! Relieving compaction at this time will stimulate root growth for deeper rooting. I recommend Bio-enhanced Aerify as it will penetrate 12 inches plus and supply the beneficial biolife necessary for healthy nutrient transfer to the roots while increasing water retention in the soil.
Insect and Disease Control
Dormant Oil spraying is done when woody plants are not actively growing, and when (except for evergreens) the leaves are off the plants. For example, in the North, Dormant Oil Spraying is typically done at the end of winter or in very early spring, before trees and plants leaf out. Many insects and disease organisms overwinter on the stems, trunks and branches of plants and trees. Covering the dormant branches and trunks of plants with our WIPEOUT suffocates overwintering insect eggs and fungal spores.
Some of the insects controlled by dormant oil are pine needle scale, oyster shell scale, euonymus scale, aphids, caterpillar (eggs), spider mites and small pine sawfly larvae.
Apply when plants are dry and rain is not expected. Spray when temperatures will not fall below freezing for at least 24 hours. Apply at the end of winter. Coat all branches and trunks, making sure you get the oil into any cracks in the bark where insects may hide. Before you spray make sure to clean up the fallen leaves around your plants and remove any leftover fruit that may be still hanging on your trees.
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